1989 first growths, more or less

 

I must say that I think the 1989s are lovely to drink now – and I mean in particular the classed growths just under first rank (Palmer, Cos and Lynch Bages are particularly delicious). Some cru bourgeois are still delicious too, even if most petits chateaux were at their ripe best a few years ago.

Last November I had a chance to look at, as we say, the first growths from giant bottles, which of course represent red bordeaux 1989s at their most backward. (I think if I had tasted them out of bottles I would probably have given...