Last time I did any comprehensive tasting of Bulgarian wines was on an eye-opening short visit there in 2003 (see my report ). I tasted one or two good wines, generally made by new, small, boutique operations, but the general standard was pretty depressing and the neglected vineyards even more so. This is a country in such need of investment and general increase in standard of living that I have kept an eye on it ever since and was pleased to make Enira 2004 , the debut release from the Bulgarian outpost of Ch Canon La Gaffelière in St-Emilion, a wine of the week last year. Yesterday however the ‘first annual Wines from...