Daniel Barraud, En Crèches 2004 St-Véran
14 Nov 2006 by JR

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Sure, you can find many a St Véran selling at less than this, but can you find on as rich, full and reverberating? In fact this wine tastes more like a 2005 than a 2004 in some ways… and I very rarely encounter a disappointing St-Véran. Is this the most reliable white burgundy appellation of all?

Daniel Barraud always over-delivers, without going all out in the botrytised Thévenet idiom. This is serious wine – not trying to be a Côte d’Or white burgundy manqué but plays on the virtues of the plumpness of this popular Mâconnais appellation. All bounce and fruit and aplomb with that super-ripe apple flavour that is characteristic of this appellation that intermingles with Beaujolais Blanc.

I think this is a great buy and, if served with the first course at a dinner, would win over the most doubting guest that you really knew your stuff. This is far, far more than just another Chardonnay.

Best price I can find in the UK is £10.95 from Lea & Sandeman and, according to wine.searcher.com, $18.99 from Rochambeau of Dobbs Ferry in New York.

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