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Five consumer wine fairs ...
The continuing saga of disappointing Dom Pérignon 1998 continues. (See A blind tasting of de luxe champagnes .)
Last weekend I dropped in at Le Grand Tasting 2006, a big consumer wine event organised beneath the Louvre in Paris by Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve last Saturday. Dom Pérignon 1998 was being poured at one of the stands so I relished the chance to try it again. No improvement, I’m afraid, and certainly none of the lovely autolytic aromatic development or firm, dense, vibrant fruit that one expects of a Dom P in its prime.
I asked the guy pouring it, who was...
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