Please share your sommelier experiences

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Anonymous: Three quick examples - sadly in all cases we were ordering a French wine from a French sommelier ( as far as we could tell ) in a 'top' - or least relatively expensive - restaurants in London. At Fleur in St James's Street we were determined to order two half bottles of a particular Puligny Montrachet - they did not have it in a full bottle - and he was equally determined that we should accept the Meursault he assured us was at least as good if not better. He lost the battle but then opened the red only after our main courses had arrived - to the amusement of our friends from New England. At Tom Aikens, while serving us, the sommelier turned to his colleague, spilling our wine in doing so. But it was his colleague's question that captured our attention. Despite sporting a bunch of grapes on his lapel, he was seeking advice on what vin santo was, as another customer had requested a glass. Similarly, at Gordon Ramsay's resturant at Claridges, the senior sommelier delivered a stinging lecture to a junior colleague standing right behind us and our corner table, as if we were invisible or at least deaf. It would have been more discreet to have found a corner of the kitchen area away from any customers. What makes the best restaurants in London outstanding in our judgement - Chez Bruce and Le Gavroche come to mind - is that the quality of the wine service matches the skills of the kitchen. There we always say:"we were thinking about a bottle of X - but do you have an alternative which would work better or which we do not know so well?" and they will unhesitatingly suggest something interesting and normally less expensive than our first idea.

Sigi Hiss (Einsiedeln): hi,
we had this discussion a few weeks with some person in charge of the german branch of the sommlier association & the director of the sommelier-school in koblenz/germany. we came to the connaissance that the problem is divided into 2 main parts:

1. the occupational title (at least in germany) is not protected. this means that everyone can call himself "sommelier" without any apprenticeship. what follows as an result of this is the reason for this discussion....lack of basic knowledge in all "corners" of what a sommlier job is.

2. the sommelier's repuatation is enormous & sometimes on a untouchable level. due to some very popular & very profesional sommeliers - some are book writer & have weekly tv appearance. in this stream some of the young fellows which are going to the sommelier-schools lost, before done something special, "contact to ground". they came with a behavior to the school - based on the fact they do the apprenticeship - lift them automatically up to an higher level. also most of them are very young which is no excuse but it has to be included in the judging. so the arrogance quite often. to be understood right: not all but quite a few of them.

on the other hand we have to say that guests can be a harder than hard.
jancis if you are interested i can ask the director of the german wine & sommelier-school in koblenz, writing his thoughts to this theme.
regards sigi

James Browne (Koelenhof, Stellenbosch): Jancis. At a top-end Italian restaurant in Dusseldorf a few years ago I ordered a bottle of Argiano Brunello 1990 from an impressive list for some travelling wine people and our mutual importer who were breaking bread together. The German-speaking sommelier tasted and decanted the wine which then waited for the relevant course to arrive before he poured it. Upon our tasting it for the first time it was evident that the wine was corked and as he had accepted it (in a tastevin of all things) we were in dispute! He was adamant that that was how Brunello tasted and that he was not prepared to take it back. He then stormed off to the bar area and started dropping a glasses. When he had calmed down we pointed out that there were wine people present and so confident were we of our diagnosis that to appease him we would order another bottle of the same wine on condition that if it was the same we would pay for both but if not we would pay for one. Needless to say the second bottle was clean and he was able to taste what a good Brunello should taste like. As a peace offering from him we were surprised at the end of the meal to have a magnum of Brunello grappa placed before us on the house. We did our best to leave him some! James Browne

Anonymous: Posted late last year on Your Turn....a group of eight of us were dining at Quaglino's. Wine arrived and I was given the customary thimble full to try. Waitress then proceeded to serve all my guests around the table only to end up with me and an empty bottle....would I like another bottle sir? Giving her the benefit of the doubt (inexperience, etc) I said yes. Exactly the same thing happended with the water...this time I wasn't so relaxed and asked to speak to the manager. He told me wine bottles were designed to fill 7 glasses and they were not at fault. Writing to the new CEO of the Conran Group I was sent a standard looking response with a voucher for a bottle of house fizz for 'next time I dined'. Frankly the experience was so bad they'd need to offer me far more than a free bottle of champagne to lure me back in and I would obviously be careful not to go with more than 6 friends.

Anonymous: The two behaviors that most often surprise me are:
The "vintage switch" when the wine on the list has rolled over to a new vintage but the staff are caught unaware. I have had this happen a number of times, where I have to be the one to somewhat awkwardly point out the discrepancy. This is particularly bad when the wine is to be decanted and the diner has but a moment to notice before the bottle is relegated to a side table, never to return.
The second is the impromptu wine lecture where a server decides to repeat verbatim the staff training from the pre-service meal. I appreciate the enthusiasm, and I always like to learn something new, but generally, I prefer the server “sound out the table” first. I have taken quite a few meals with sommeliers and importers, only to have to sit obligingly through a discourse on the merits of malolactic fermentation.

Harry Edey (London): At a hotel restaurant in Northern Ireland, the waitress brought over the bottle of red I had ordered and asked whether I wanted to taste it first, to which I said "yes". Even a cursory sniff of the wine in the glass indicated that it was badly tainted so I asked for a new bottle of the same. She was a bit taken back by this and asked me whether I didn't like it. No, I replied, it's not that I don't like it, just that the wine is tainted. She said she would go and get the "somelier" with whom she then returned. He asked me what the problem was. I explained the problem and he very politely asked me whether he could smell the wine in my glass. He took the glass, expertly swhirled it around and gave it a long hard snif. After a moment's pause he delivered the final, definitive verdict: "I never did like red wine".

Michael Tabone (zurrieq): Hi Jancis
On a December visit to La Tour D'Argent I was debating on wheter to order a Soutard 85 when the Sommelier informed me that I should not as the vintage was not up to much. I replied 'that's funny' since i had only a month before drank lots of brilliant 85s in St Emilion including Soutard. Still, we opted for Troplong 89 but wanted a half bottle of white to start with. We chose Malartic Lagraviere 88 which in half bottle was always going to be risky! A young Sommelier opened the bottle, sniffed and tasted it from a timble sort of glass and served me to approve. The wine was way over oxidised. I suggested that the wine was not drinkable and was promtly replaced with another, much fresher tasting half bottle.

The point of contention is; Should not the sommelier at such an instituation (and price) have noticed that the wine was bad? And if he did, was he trying to trick me.

Some people who might not be so wine knowledgable and who might have been saving up for a special occasion, perhaps would have felt intimidated arguing with a sommelier in full regalia!!

The Troplong 89 was excellent and well served by the more seniour somelier.

Michael Tabone - Malta

Andrew McKinna (London): Another bad habit in many restaurants in London that should know better - Angela Hartnett at The Connaught comes to mind - is routinely moving from one glass to the next to pour the wine too quickly, spilling more than a few drops outside the glass and ( as at Tom Aikens in my first post above ) without any acknowledgement or of course apology.

Less surprisingly, sommeliers in Californian wine country ( no doubt kept on their toes by regularly serving the local producers )offer good advice with great confidence, on which wine but also which vintage would work best with our chosen food. One, at Tra Vigne in St Helena, gave us a photocopy of a map marked with his personal favourites among the many wineries - he was obviously well-used to giving recommendations and kept a small pile at his station!

On the other hand, his counterpart in Burgundy, at the Chateau de Gilly, a few years ago, tried to serve us a wine from Olivier Leflaive instead of the Domaine Leflaive described on the Wine List and, when challenged, insisted that there was no difference. Well, there was, and not only in price...Our subsequent letter of gentle reproach to the Hotel was never acknowledged.

Patience Waddilove (Shaftesbury): Apologies, but out here in the sticks, we choose our own wines and don't ask for advice. Fortunately, many wines served hereabouts are sourced either from Christopher Piper or Great Western, so we know them.

On the trick of trying to fill theincresingly voluminous glasses more than 1/3 full, my husband and now clearly indicate (wth a gentle smile) when the 'wine steward' is to stop pouring. They choose to refuse to notice only if they wish to pour wine over the backs of our respective hands. I've largely given up on the gracious life, as have so many people serving these days. So far, no one has taken offense, and all have been happy to comply. We trot through a bottle at our pace and pocketbook, not theirs.

Peter McCombie (London): My own favourite: some years ago in a reasonably serious French-style restaurant in London, upon suggesting a bottle of Guigal Cote du Rhone might be corked, was the response of the apparently teenage sommelier. "That's how Rhone wines smell, sir", he assured me. This before he had even smelled the wine. I stood my ground and insisted on another bottle and when it came insisted he smell both wines. He conceded. I am also driven mad by sommeliers who take my wine away, but don't top up my glass. On the postive side I've always liked the sommeliers at The Square, notably a quiet, serious but friendly Frenchman called Marc Moigneux. He gave sound, budget-friendly advice, but sadly for us in London, he has returned to France. I think there are a number of very good sommeliers in London at the moment- including at Tom Aikens - who are genuinely interested in good service, without snobbery. I wonder if the sommelier, who didn't know what vin santo is, could have been a junior. We all have to start somewhere. At least he asked, rather than blustered.

Bernhard Steiner (Singapore): As the thread started in Singapore I should add that my experiences here with Asian Someliers in the better restaurants have usually been great - particularly pleasant that as the someliers here know that my wife and I are interested in wines, therefore they are often quite willing to share their passion with us either in giving us background about wines, or, in one recent example we were offered a few glasses of wine after dinner for blind tasting; the wine turned out to be Lafleur 1982, at some GBP 2500 or so not the cheapest offering on the wine list. We were told that the Indonesian millionaire at the table next to us elected to only drink a glass of the bottle he ordered and the somelier was kind enough to share the rest of the wine with us.

Jon Pepper (London): It's clear that there are plenty of horror stories out there, but there are also some particularly good sommeliers in London. Three who spring to mind:

Roberto Della Pietra at Roussillon in Pimlico. I've had a couple of thoroughly enjoyable evenings where (on learning that we loved our wine) Roberto has served a glass of wine to match each course of the eight-course tasting menu, but has served them blind and invited us to guess at their identities. And he delights in offering three different glasses of wine per guest with the cheese course to match each guest's choice of cheese.

The other two are part of the increasing (and very welcome) trend for female sommeliers; Dawn Davies at The Ledbury and an Australian lady at 1880 (at the Bentley Hotel) whose name escapes me. Both are refreshingly un-pretentious and approachable yet wonderfully knowledgeable and passionate.

Joonas Vainio (Helsinki): I find it quite suprising and sad to here so many stories of sommeliers who argue with guest concerning tainted wines. Personally I have worked seven years in resturants, the last three as a sommelier in a fine Italian resturant. And it never even came to my mind to argue with guests who found there wines tainted, usually if I tasted it my self I would apologise and promptly replace the bottle. I do want to point out several matters "in the defence" of sommeliers, since sadly most examples here are of poor exeperiences. First of all people have significantly varying sensory thresholds concerning for example cork taint, peronally my nose is not the most sensitve so I do sometimes er. Secondly it is my experience that cork taint may become more prominant with contact to air, hence a sommelier oppening a bottle and tasting it may honestly miss the taint. This is escpecially true to with very aromatic varieties like Sauvignon Blanc which can mask cork taint. Finally I would like to add my experience of excellent service. After a gala dinner at the the 2006 sommelier nordic cahmpionships, I was invited to join the table of some senior wine trade executives, who then proceded to oarder some Perrier Jouet Belle Epoque. The young waiter proceded to bring a bottle, which our host tasted and which was subsequntly served. After this one member of the group (the most senior of the seniors) informed that it was faulty. To make along story short three bottles were sent back, non of which to my nose had anything wrong with them. And each time the young waiter just apologised and brought a new bottle, always with a friendly smile. After this the host decied to change the champgne, and finaly we got to qunech our thirst.

Nic Bernard (Coulsdon): I ordered a bottle of Mas de Daumas Gassac 1989 at Gordon Ramsay’s Royal Hospital Road restaurant. Not my usual eating establishment! but intended as the perfect venue for a special meal. It was sniffed by the waiter and decanted before being offered to me to taste. I felt it was markedly tainted, but because of the reputation of the restaurant, I felt very nervous about querying it, and asked for the sommelier to taste it for me. To be fair he immediately agreed with me and replaced it with a (very delicious) bottle of the same wine. The sommelier dealt with it beautifully and professionally and quickly made me feel comfortable again. Accidents can happen, but surely a restaurant of such repute should not put a diner in a difficult place like that?

Harry Edey (London): Just to redress the balance (following my account of an indcident in Northern Ireland above), I, like most others above, found the (Northern Irish) sommelier at Tom Aikens to be excellent. Not only did he give me excellent advice on the wine and talk to me about it, but he also gave me a superb foodie tip: lunch at The Capital is one of the best meals and deals around (to which I can now vouch from repeated first hand experience). The sommelier there is also excellent. Other good experiences of sommeliers were at Pied a Terre, La Trompette, The Square and La Noisette, all of whom have the critical ability to assist without condescension (though looking at that list of restaurants, it is unrepresentative of the sorts of place I eat at normally which might well suggest that the more expenensive restaurants generally employ individuals who are more highly trained in wine, though that does not always equate to being better at their job).

For example, the sommelier at Galvin at Windows seriously irritated me by, when I asked for a bottle of a particular reisling, pointing me in the direction of one almost twice the price and then, when I stuck with my original choice, confirming to the entire table of my guests "So you'd like the basic riesling?"!

A really good sommelier can truly make a meal and even a restaurant. There is one such at a restaurant (Le Gindreau) in SW France (near Cahors). While the food and setting there are wonderful (and make even The Capital look expensive) and worth a detour in their own right, an absolutely critical part of the restaurant's success, and what takes me back there time and time again, is Robert, the sommelier whose advice on wine and general bonhomie is unmatched in my experience.

Jeremy Wilkinson (Surrey): A couple of observations. I think that the era of 'revenue maximisation' sommelier behaviour in the better UK restaurants is thankfully coming to an end. I have not had, in the last few years, the experience of being 'sold up' aggresively - though that was often the case ten years ago. I also have to say that it's often my practice to leave the choice of wine to the sommelier if he/she seems to know what they are talking about (this is particularly the case when confronted with the mega lists that some places have, after all the sommelier should know their way around their own lists!). The good ones ask about styles and price range and then make two or three suggestions. I've also been on a WSET course with two young sommeliers from Hakkasan and Tate Modern/Tate Britain and they were both some of the nicest people you could hope to meet, which I suppose bodes well for the future.

Ned Goodwin (Tokyo): Sommelier I am, currently at the end of service and sipping something envigourating by the computer.
As for upselling, it is not inherent to our training in general but in some cases, a reflection of the restaurant in question, or in other cases, a reflection of the guest/s themselves.
Some customers, even after asking for a recommendation or for something similar albeit, different to the wine they are pondering, find downnselling insulting. This is certainly the case here in Japan a great deal of the time. To recommend a wine that is less expensive than the one in question, causes a loss of face for the host no matter how passionate, knowledgeable and genuine one may be.
A good sommelier must not only know wine and love wine for the visceral as well as the cerebral joys, but he/she must be deft at judging different guests` needs, cultural nuances, and the way to convey one`s passion pending on the moment at hand. Not everyone wants a synopsis, nor does everyone want a utilitarian approach. What everyone does want however, is for the experience to be enhanced via a wine that sings with the priorities at hand. These priorities, for better or worse, are not always food.
In any event, this evening a bloke wanted Opus One at $400 US for the `01. He asked me if there was something else I would recommend. I asked if he would like me to surprise him, or show an alternative wine before decanting. He was adventurous and opted for the surprise. I served him Clonakilla `00 Syrah/Viognier. Nothing like the Opus aside from a slight New World veneer and an appealing savouriness; yet this customer was open, had clearly had Opus before, was interested in critically acclaimed wines, preferably New World; and he and his wife got to drink something different for $200 less that went with their meal.

Marcus Ford (Shanghai): My great test for a sommelier is sticking to the budget, I hate being sold to. It seems an age ago but when Gordon Ramsay was "Aubergine" the sommelier (was it Thierry?) was quite fantastic, we went several times with four or six at the table, gave hime a wine budget to play with for our dinner and asked that the wines were both interesting and appropriate- he unfailingly delivered on both counts and never once went over budget nor asked that we did so. I have been to Tetsuya in Sydney twice and had two contrasting experiences, the first one of the most memorable dinners I have enjoyed was complimented beautifully by the Sommelier's service in all respects- again she (Irish and charming to boot) overdelivered under budget. The second occaision at Tetsuya was a failure in that the sommelier was 30% over budget without even a mention of whether we wanted to trade-up, he wasn't even there when the bill was paid, the wine that blew the budget was underwhelming- It left the most sour aftertaste to an otherwise delightful evening. For what its worth our budget is about 50GBP per bottle or less and we normally consume a bottle per person through dinner- one hopes most sommeliers would relish the challenge! I don't enjoy trawling a winelist while my guests are talking and prefer to give the sommelier the parameters then give me some options within those parameters without my needing to check the list again. Its a relaxing and informative way when it works well........

Neville Blech (London): The Irish sommelier at Tom Aikens restaurant is Gearoid Devaney. Here is what I wrote about him in my review of the restaurant some two years ago on my Bacchus & Comus website.

"On our first visit the seven course tasting menu was brilliantly accompanied by wines by the glass chosen by the sommelier, Gearoid Devaney, with the wines coming up absolutely punctually as each course arrived. And the wines all matched brilliantly. It’s one of the few places in the world where we would unequivocally place ourselves in the hands of a sommelier."

And I am not surprised that he recommended lunch at the Capital Hotel - he used to work there before Tom Aikens lured him away! Lucky Tom!

I have to add, that on another occasion we went there, he was not present and the wine service was decidedly inferior.

Another unsung sommelier is Luciana Girotto, who complied the wine list at Il Convivio in Ebury Street - one of the best Italian lists in London. Unfortunately she got promoted to wine buyer for the whole of the Etrusca Group of restaurants, so spends much less time "on the floor" and could be at any one of the several restaurants in the group. I haven't been to Il Convivio for some time now, so I don't know if the wine list has changed significantly or not.

It's good to read so many praises for sommeliers these days - 20 years ago, I would come across a plethora of ignorant, stuck up and badly informed French sommeliers, but these days it appears that they are coming over to Britain and the USA to learn about wines of the world and some of them have really learned fast.

Whilst a brilliant sommelier is a fantastic bonus and a good sommelier desirable, I have always found that well-written, food orientated tasting notes are invaluable to a wine list - not wine merchants' semi technical blather, nor poetry about fruit flavours (Dear Jilly, can you please recommend a wine that tastes of GRAPES?), but notes that assist the diner in matching wines with what is going to be eaten is invaluable.

A lot of restaurants now have their wine lists posted up on their web sites. To avoid Jeremy Wilkinson's and Marcus Ford's ennui [/] why not look up the wine list before trotting out to the restaurant and make a short list of wines you would like to try?

Ron Pelley (Kettering): Not the most serious bad sommelier experience, but a little annoying - when I was having lunch at Galvin in Baker Street a few weeks ago I looked at the prices of some of its Grand Cru and Premier Cru Burgundies and was pleasantly surprised by the prices. First the sommelier, a young woman in her early twenties told me that the wine I had chosen (sorry, I've forgotten what it was, but it was a Premier Cru) was no longer available. I asked what else from that page of around 15 wines was not available and she said she had everything else. I tried again, another Premier Cru, and after a little delay was told that that wine too was no longer available. Then we had a happy ending by choosing a 1999 Rossignol-Trapet Chambertin, which was wonderful. It could have been better had they bothered to decant it and I suppose it's infanticde to drink such a wine so young. Nevertheless it gave us great pleasure...and at £75 was excellent value!
On a related note, is it perhaps the case that all the experienced staff at Galvin have gone to Galvin at Windows on Park Lane? The staff in Baker Street seemed quite good, but not as friendly or in control as on my previous visits.

Jancis (Mission Control): I have been asked by Cecile Collineau (Tokyo) to add this, specifically on
Women and wine:

I worked in the wine industry for a few years; as such my (French) husband has always gallantly let me choose wine in a restaurant. Your article reminded me of 2 unfortunate events with sommeliers who thought that a woman was not an adequate person to choose wine.

First experience was in Roland Mazere's Le Centenaire, in Dordogne. The sommelier's extremely haughty attitude came to a climax when I asked him a technical question about 2nd wines from Bordeaux's 1st growths. While his answer was thorough and accurate, he did not look at me once during his reply and spoke to my husband as if I did not exist.

Second experience as in Tokyo's Chez Tomo: as the sommelier handed the wine list to my husband, the latter declined and said "My wife will choose the wine". The sommelier.... laughed. Fair enough, in Asian culture laughter is often a sign of embarrassment, but this simply shows how this sommelier felt odd that a man would let his female partner choose the wine instead of him.

These 2 examples are unfortunate: the food and service in both restaurants was above average. However, a sommelier’s poor attitude left a sour note to what could have been a wonderful evening.

I definitely am not a feminist; being French and working in the wine industry has showed me that women can still enjoy power, in more subtle ways. Unfortunately, these 2 examples demonstrate that this world is often male-dominated. This is especially the case for France (where I was born) and Japan (where I live and which is heavily influenced by France when it comes to gastronomy and wine). I find the English-speaking world much more open-minded in general; as for Asia, where I have been living for 10 years, the service is more than often excellent quality; such incidents are rare.

I congratulate you Ms Robinson for your presence on the wine scene, as a woman and as a non-French: must not be easy every day !

Anonymous: Hi there. I was a caviste at a 2 Michelin star restaurant in Megeve.. unfortunately I could not agree with you more! In the year and a half I had worked for this restaurant I was shocked and dissapointed with the level of experience, education and hospitality of the sommeliers. For some reason these young sommeliers feel that tourists(namely foreign) have absolutely no clue and they try and use this to their advantage and do try to dump bottles that are beginning to pass onto their clients... there has been times and occasions I have tasted these bottles that I believed should no longer be cellered (new world wines more then 9 years old coming from immature vineyards)These wines were not horrible and not really tainted but just starting to diminish.. anyway I gave my canadian new world palate opinion and was scoffed at and ignored. I understand I have received all my education in Canada (mostly in science viticulture/viniculture)and my palate was trained more in new world wines... being a foreigner and being ignored by pompious newbies seemed to be a norm for me there. I have watched with shame and remorse for the clients who have ordered slightly tainted bottles, wines that should be decanted that were not and wines that were decanted and then deconstructed.. however again this is just my opinion.. and this is in a michelin star level resturant?! The big problem here I believe is sommeliers trained in France have no clue about demographics and how educated English and North americans are becoming( in my opinion more educated then the new younger french proffesional as they still have a tendancy to scoff at new world wines or any other wine for that matter that does not come from france).. not to mention North Americans and British are more likely to drink wine and explore different varietals just for the sheer enjoyment and passion they have for its nectar on any given day.. not just with a meal as I have noticed in the last five years I have been in France.. this is the strict norm... even the wine bars here, the sommeliers have dissapointed me.. some of em dont even know what a flight is! (sorry my english is getting bad)... However,not all.. I was delighted and honored to have met Monsieur Olivier Poussier at this restaurant... in just moments of talking with him I understood there is some french sommeliers who have the internal passion and excitement along with an air of friendliness and humility that was so welcoming and inspirational. Unfortunately he is one in a bunch... and in my experience those little grapes on their lapel has nothing to do with their experience.. I have worked with a 19 year old stage sommelier who was just given one for her shift.Well.. my passion was being surpassed by dissapointment after all this...I quit. Think its time to open my own Bar au vin...Ok getting off topic..Owing you gratitude and many thank yous for giving women in this industry the confidence to excel(actually it was you and your book that sparked my drive to advance my palate ...to pursue a life in wine and not just in the science and finacial future)
Stacey

Anonymous: My favourite sommelier experience has to be when a customer ordered a bottle of Romanee st Vivant 1990. Being the most expensive bottle on the list and no one had ever indeed asked for it before the Sommelier sadly had to inform the guest that there was only one bottle available in stock, as a friendly advice should the he like it too much and order another. The guest appreciated the news and ordered it anyway. Having drunk it, the guest asked whether the SOmmelier had another hidden somewhere in the cellar. The Sommelier declined, but offered to find one for him in half an hour. So he called a nearby hotel and asked the duty manager for the same bottle, which fortunately, was in stock! So a taxi was arranged, the bottle delivered, opened and drunk. The customer was asounded by such customer service and the Sommelier was also pleased to have liased with a fellow Sommelier in another restaurant for everyone's benefit. Furthermore, since the hotel was selling the bottle at a much cheaper price, the Sommelier made a profit yet sold it cheaper than the first bottle, as a gesture of good will! See, some of us Sommeliers are actually nice and helpful! At this point i proudly state that the Sommelier in question was myself :)

Mark Micallef Cesareo, 23
Edinburgh

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