It almost seems as though British wine writers are turning en masse into winemakers. For the record, I have zero desire to practise what I preach. I am far too much of a control freak to submit happily to being subordinate to such a powerful force as Nature. But not all my colleagues are as spineless. Recently I have had the pleasure of tasting wines made by Charles Metcalfe, Robert Joseph, Portuguese specialist Richard Mayson and organic/biodynamic enthusiast Monty Waldin - all of them well-known British wine writers. CHARLES METCALFE Charles is arguably the most equable and affable of all my colleagues. If I had...