For an introduction to the region and to this series of profiles , see The right road to northern Greece and Greece backs indigenous varieties . Evangelos Gerovassiliou is both tall and a man of high standing in the world of Greek wine, a highly educated pioneer (he was a student of Émile Peynaud in Bordeaux) now reaping the rewards of more than a quarter of a century as master of his own estate in Epanomi, due south of Thessaloniki at the north-western extreme of Halkidiki. His 2007 whites were Wines of the Week earlier this year. More typically Mediterranean than the vineyards futher east in Drama and...