For a map and an introduction to the region and to this series of profiles , see The right road to northern Greece . Agios Pavlos is just one of Tsantali’s four big wineries, due south of Thessaloniki and a little further south than Domaine Gerovassiliou , on the north-eastern side of Halkidiki. Everything is large-scale and well used, including the alambic stills for the production of the grappa-like Tsipouro (left), with or without anis flavouring. Large volumes do not however get in the way of enthusiasm and passion. New young winemaker Athena Tsoli has blown in with ambition and fire but she'll need the wisdom of her...