On Tuesday, the British fine-wine trade was exposed en masse to the 2009 classed growths now that they are in bottle. These 120-odd wines had been shown in Paris the day before but otherwise, this was their first bottled excursion.
As you can see, the light for tasting was perfect. But see (and hear) the contrast between just before the official start time and once the hall had been cleared of the hungriest guests and exhibitors.
It took cunning and strong elbows to make progress here.
Julia and I report here on what we tasted and how this vintage is showing in reds, dry whites and sweet whites.