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  • Jancis Robinson
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  • Jancis Robinson
16 Aug 2006

Christine Parkinson of Hakkasan is one of the most creative restaurant wine buyers in the UK. Heaven knows what she’d get up to if put in a more classically wine-minded operation than this noisy, super-hip, tenebrous basement serving top quality dim sum et al. She has just launched a new wine list with an entirely new way of categorising her wines and I thought you might be interested to see the headings.

 

Australian sommelier Matt Wilkin (ex Capital and People’s Palace, now Genesis Wines) reports: “she showed it to me the other day, and I must say she has compiled a list which is exceptionally different from the majority of wine lists, whilst maintaining the Hakkasan fingerprint. Apart from being very well formatted to avoid confusion, she has categorised the selection of wines by titles which correctly reflect the category she has placed them in for all to understand. Each title is followed by a simple brief explanation, which acts as a catalyst to understand why those wines are chosen and placed in their bracket.”

 

Prestige: fine wines

Magnums: double bottles

Champagne large formats: more is more

Exploration: wine by the glass

Signature: wines of Hakkasan

Harmony: wine and food

Rosé: pale wine from red grapes

Purity: the expression of fruit

Terroir: a sense of place

Curious vines: distinctive wines, blends, the art of the winemaker

Age and grace: mature wines

Vieilles vignes: old vines

Biodynamics: spiritual wine

Last few: the end of the line

Meditation: sweet wine

Strength & beauty: fortified wine

Interesting, no?