Baden
10 Sep 2008 by Jancis Robinson

In a nutshell: full-bodied reds and powerful whites.

Main grapes: Spätburgunder (red); Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder (white).

The most southerly of Germany’s wine regions, just across the Rhine from Alsace, has the climate to produce some impressive red wines and some sturdy Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder. By far the most important producer is the Zentralkellerei, or co-op, based in Breisach, which is commendably ambitious. Some very good Pinots, including deep red Spätburgunders, are underappreciated abroad. And this is a region whose summers are now so warm that varieties such as Syrah, Viognier and Cabernet Sauvignon are grown with abandon , Dr Heger, Bernhard Huber, Karl Heinz Johner, Franz Keller, Martin Wassmer and Hanspeter Ziereisen are notable individual producers.

Some favourite producers: Dr Heger, Bernhard Huber, Karl Heinz Johner, Franz Keller, Fritz Keller, Andreas Laible, Martin Wassmer and Wolff-Metternich.