Upmarket UK supermarket Waitrose is clearly aware that it may not be perceived as the first destination for bargains. Why else would the head of the wine department, Justin Howard-Sneyd MW, interrupt their big presentation of current wines to scores of wine writers - a first in all the Waitrose tastings I have attended - to point out the collection of wines under £4 and under £5, encouraging us to taste them in a row rather than in the run of the other wines. I disobeyed, preferring to see them in context, and was encouraged to find a good number of wines worthy of GV (good value) or even VGV (very good value) at various different...
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