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How are 2003 bordeaux now?
I promised a companion piece to my How are 2000 bordeaux now? on a much more contentious vintage, 2003 bordeaux.This was the heatwave year when many grapes shrivelled long before ripening properly so that the skin-to-juice ratio was often unnaturally high and the resulting wines seem destined to be marked by very dry tannins and a lack of fruit for the rest of their lives. But when they are good, as typically for instance in the damper, cooler soils of St-Estèphe, the 2003s are very good. See, for example, my extremely enthusiastic tasting note on Cos d'Estournel's little brother Ch Marbuzet, the only one of the wines noted below that...
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