Richard Hemming recently tasted these offerings from Virgin Wines, now a subsidiary of Direct Wines, owned by the Laithwaite family. CHAMPAGNE Vilmart, Grand Reserve NV Champagne 16.5 Drink 2009-11 Impressive yeast, cream, toast and sherbet fruitiness. Crisp and appley on the palate. Moderate intensity, nicely balanced. 12.5% (RH) £22.99 (£18.99 during May) Virgin Wines WHITE Java, Blanc 2007 Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne 15.5 Drink 2009 Neutral fruit, a bit like tropical citrus, I suppose. Bit of creamy malo character to flesh it out. Nothing wrong with this. Except...