The virtues of wine aged in glass
Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon is famously, ceaselessly, one might almost say ADD-ly, experimental. His current preoccupation is to compare the same wine aged variously in foudres (upright 10,000-litre French oak vats), puncheons/ demi-muids and large glass carboys, the sort of thing they call bonbonnes in Roussillon, where they sometimes use them for ageing vin doux naturel. Here we see the bank of carboys that is Randall's current pride and joy in his new winery in what was originally a brussels sprout packing plant, then a food co-op, then a granola factory and most recently the bottling premises for the wines that...
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