Wolfgang Hehle was a tax consultant and a beer drinker when he married Helle Cossmann in the 1970s. Her father owned and ran Weingut Deutzerhof, and it didn’t take long for Wolfgang to start getting very involved (doesn’t strike me as surprising – a life looking at tax records v a life making wine is not what I would consider an agonising dilemma). At the time, the estate was making very traditional wines of the local area: simple, sweet, and mostly Geisenheim crossings. Herr Hehle, however, had his sights set higher; well beyond the steep, vine-clung Altenahr slopes. He believed that with the right clones, the right vineyard...