Marche wines can last!
Father and son Massimo and Michele Bianchi Bernetti, owners of Umani Ronchi, one of the most successful wine producers in the Marche on the Adriatic coast of Italy, came to the private room in the bowels of Bocca di Lupo in London 10 days ago to prove the ageability of two the wines that put them on the map, Casal di Serra Verdicchio and Cúmaro. I always associate the latter with the late James Rogers, who was one of the most visionary members of the British wine trade in the 1970s and 1980s but tragically did not survive to see the 1990s and shake us Brits out of our obsession with price. He had absolutely no prejudices but...
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