Some producers are already pronouncing the 2009 Champagne harvest 'excellent' and comparing it with vintages such as 1982 and 1989. Among the 15 or so producers (both houses and growers) I have spoken to, all are enthusiastic and Pinot Noir is widely reported as the variety that fared best in this harvest, particularly in some of the grands crus of the Montagne de Reims. On average the maximum permitted yield of 14,000 kg/ha will be reached across the appellation, although yields vary wildly from below 8,000 kg/ha to above 18,000 kg/ha, according to the winemakers contacted. Nicolas Maillart, a grower based in the premier cru of...