Earlier this month a dozen of us gathered at London’s Connaught Hotel to taste a range of Pol Roger vintage champagnes, many of them kindly supplied by a Finnish collector. We tasted them in flights with a sensitively delicate menu from Hélène Darroze.   James Simpson MW of Pol Roger UK gave us some background. He pointed out that ‘some time in the last 32 years’ Pol Roger stopped giving a deliberately lower dosage to champagne destined for the UK market. (I think many champagne drinkers would concur that Pol is not one of the driest champagnes around, but it seems to have gravitas too, so is not simply sweet...