See my notes on a vertical tasting of DRC's Romanée-St-Vivant to be published tomorrow. Aubert de Villaine, wine thief in hand, shows me the gleaming sorting table at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in Vosne-Romanée and what exactly happens to the grapes rejected on it. The table was absolutely vital to the success of the 2008 vintage but was apparently hardly needed at all in 2009 when only whole, perfect bunches made it into the handsome wooden fermentation vats shown here. Note, by the way, that DRC finally decided to go biodynamic, after wavering about whether there really is enough difference between...
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