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Trench warfare in Chile
Until recently, I had always viewed Chilean wine as a bit like vacuum-packed pasta: dependable and functional but hardly exciting. On cursory inspection it seems generic and homogenous, lots of inexpensive and forgettable single varietals with hokum branding - although in fairness, a less cynical pair of eyes might see in that the secrets of its success: good value, easy drinking brands with excellent varietal typicity. Either way, it remains unlikely to be the first country most people would think of in terms of vinous innovation.
I had few expectations therefore when last month I visited Chile for the first time, at the end of a...
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