The Chinese are brilliant at lots of things, not least creating fakes of successful brands. Many Chinese cities have whole shopping complexes devoted, for example, to selling cheap copies of luxury fashion items. Of course, now that the wine market in China is developing rapidly, this ingenuity is being applied to wine, particularly to that Chinese wine icon Château Lafite. This is the first of a series of illustrations of this new phenomenon, based on photographs taken by specialist lawyer Nick Bartman, for long resident in Hong Kong, who toured China recently and recorded dozens of instances of brazen passing off of many...