We are always being told that Burgundy has the most expensive vineyard land in the world (with the possible exception of some of the more hallowed clos in Champagne that LVMH get their hands on and market mercilessly). If this is true, it is remarkable how many outsiders are impelled to invest in making this most frustratingly inconsistent of wines. The foreigners I can immediately think of who have either acquired land or launched their own labels in Burgundy include Blair Pethel of Domaine Dublère, David Clark, Alex Gambal, Ray Walker of Maison Ilan, Mournier Saouma and Rotem Brakin of Lucien Lemoine, Michael Ragg and Michael...