Here in the Languedoc we have the world's oldest collection of vinyl. Our 19 year old has just asked me, 'Mum, what's an EP?' and I write this listening to the Stones' second, 1964, album, in mono. 'What a Shame', to be precise. The wine collection is not quite as ancient but there are certainly bottles left down here that would have been drunk a lot sooner if we lived here 12 months a year. On one of our first nights down here, I opened a bottle of Domaine Boudinaud 2001 Côtes du Rhône with low expectations. Not that I don't respect Thierry Boudinaud, the winemaker behind such runaway commercial successes as Fat...