Every time we drive into the local town, we pass one of the biggest bulk wine suppliers of the region. Although the co-ops round here in the Languedoc are in free fall - they seem to be being wound up at the rate of about one a month - this wine merchant seems to be doing better business than ever to judge by the number of tankers lined up on the main road outside its warehouses, with hoses snaking out over the pavement and into the tankers. You might be surprised to learn which is one of the most common licence plates on these tankers. As many travellers to France know, vehicles give away their home département by the number on...