The morning of 20 gintonics
By 1 pm on the first day of San Sebastian Gastronomika, one of the most enthusiastically attended of all the world's growing number of gastronomic conferences, I had smelt, studied and tasted more gin and tonics than I have drunk in the last 17 years. I can say this with impunity as the arithmetic is simple. I enjoy one gin and tonic a year and by the end of this particular morning I had pronounced on 18, in differing glasses, of different colours and mixed with very differing fruits and spices. And that was before we sat down at 4.30 pm to judge the final six shortlisted bartenders to come up with the eventual winner of the...
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