American wine writer Michael Steinberger has been rather quiet of late as he has been entangled with the Vanity Fair editorial team writing a long article about the Rudy Kurniawan fake-wine story we have been following for so long on this site.
The July edition containing the result is now available in paper form in the UK and the article has just been published online under the somewhat predictable headline A Vintage Crime.
Steinberger's old friend Ben Wallace, author of The Billionaire's Vinegar, published a long article entitled Château Sucker on the same topic for New York magazine last month, so it was important for Steinberger to deliver some new nuggets and not just a rehash of the 95-page relevant thread on winebeserkers.com that has itself played an important part in the tale.
Having rapidly scanned his piece, I offer the following observations and shortcuts to the new stuff:
Steinberger's usually racy, fluid style seems to have been somewhat solidified by the rigours of the VF editing process but there is lots of nourishment here.