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The Jugged Hare, London EC1
Too often, the end of a meal is glossed over, condensed into a final paragraph,
an afterthought. There is always mention of the first impression, but rarely
mention of the last. Great detail is made of aperitifs, amuse-bouches and
starters, but rarely do digestifs, petits fours and coffees get equal billing.
The fact that by then the reviewer has digested a good percentage of their
weekly alcohol quota is purely coincidental, I'm sure.
So, to begin at the ending: the staff knew whose umbrella was whose, when they
returned them to us from the cloakroom. That's always a nice touch – not just a
sign of impeccable...
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