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In which cork trounces screwcap and 1944 shines
Some years ago the admired New Zealand producer Vidal,
sister company to Villa Maria in George Fistonich’s empire, the biggest independent
wine company in the country, sent me a case of wine. Normally I demur if anyone
sends me more than two bottles of the same wine (see our statement of
ethics ), but this unsolicited dozen was different. It contained 12 bottles
of exactly the same wine, Vidal Estate
Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 Hawke’s Bay , but half of them were
stoppered with screwcaps and half under natural cork. They sent them explicitly
asking me to compare bottles of each over the ensuing years.
I now have...
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