The resurrection of Mamertino
The Italian winescape is awash with ancient wine denominations, of which unfortunately quite a few are languishing in obscurity or exist on paper only. It doesn't necessarily mean that they are entirely forgotten, because some have been able to survive on their ancient credentials alone. This is why their production, albeit in tiny quantities, never completely ceased, while quite a few, such as Campania's Falerno di Massico or Sicily's Faro , are kissed back to life. Because of this treasure trove of obscure and unknown DOCs, I am hesitant to join the growing choir of voices, notably that of ex Gambero Rosso's Daniele Cernilli, who...
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