When ocker meets organic
'Dad thinks we're a bunch of f*ck'n' hippies', smiles Ben Paxton through his bushranger beard as he pours me a taste of his family vineyard's biodynamically grown, sulphur-free McLaren Vale Pinot Gris. We're at Rootstock, the lively natural wine fair that took place in Sydney earlier this month: 65 producers from around Australia and the world pouring a dazzling array of organic, biodynamic, minimal-additive wines. Think the Real Wine Fair or RAW Down Under. Ben's dad is David Paxton, one of Australia's most commercially minded, large-scale veteran grape growers - the last bloke, in other words, you'd expect to...
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