From €16.50, £19.50, Au$47.95 and $60 a magnumFind this wine
very much in a beaujolais mood at the moment, thanks to Purple Pager Thomas De
Waen who organised a great tasting of old beaujolais the other day, proving
that this is a wine that, contrary to common belief, can age delightfully. This
set me wondering which wines to recommend to buy now for potential cellaring.
The 2011 vintage was particularly successful in Beaujolais, resulting in wines
with exceptional ripeness, concentration and, it is thought in the region, exceptional
potential for ageing.
Julien Sunier 2011 Fleurie
would be a superb candidate. I have been struck
by the quality of every one of his wines I have been lucky enough to taste. As
I outlined in Young
ones in Beaujolais
, he was brought up in Dijon to the north and rents three
hectares of 40- to 65-year-old vines in Regnié,
Morgon and Fleurie. I first met Julien Sunier and his wines courtesy
of London wine merchant Roberson whose adventurous scouting in California I
will be reporting on next week. Now it is Berry Bros who import his
superlative, hand-crafted beaujolais into the UK. Here's what Berry's
Burgundy specialist Jasper Morris MW has to say about him:
Sunier is an adventurous young man who installed himself in the Beaujolais in
2008. His wines offer a superb expression of purity, organically grown and with
minimal sulphur used at the bottling. This Fleurie comes from an amphitheatre
of mature vines, 45 to 65 years old, situated at the very top of the
appellation, around 470 m, in a lieu-dit
The 2011 has a beautiful pure light bright pink to purple colour. The bouquet
shows lovely peppery notes along with the roses; medium bodied, enormously
elegant, silky and very persistent. Perfect balance of fruit and acidity.'
My tasting note was 'Luminous pale ruby. Broad,
complete, spicy and very mouth-filling fruit with some delicacy. This seems to
have it all. Delicacy and real life but lovely fruit and no excess sweetness
but not uncompromisingly dry. There is something burgundian about this, and it
could be difficult to find this much pleasure from a burgundy at this price.
Such purity and vibrancy... 12.5%'
I gave this lovely wine 17 out of 20 and suggested drinking it between 2013 and
2017 but in the light of last week's tasting of beaujolais back to 1970, I
think you should buy this wine in quantity and keep some of the bottles for
quite a bit longer than that.
The Fleurie 2012 is also available in Belgium, the US and Australia. In the UK Berrys also have his slightly
lighter 2011 Regnié at £16.95. Roberson
have his Fleurie and Morgon 2012s, in both bottle (£19.95) and handsome magnums
(£43.95). Now there's an idea….
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