Another look at 2000 red bordeaux – the bargains

In November I had the chance to see the much-vaunted 2000s from the châteaux that are members of the Union des Grands Crus some months after they had been bottled. These of course were much more settled and representative than the infant barrel samples I reported on in April 2001.

The annoying thing about this association of Bordeaux châteaux is that many of the top properties, and all of the first growths, have not signed up – for all sorts of reasons. Partly perhaps because this would let them in for having their wines compared alongside all the rest, one...