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  • Julia Harding MW
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  • Julia Harding MW
10 May 2007
 

Autochthonous is such a lovely word, full of misty promise; more enticing than indigenous; more politically correct than native. When Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay are such common, though potentially delicious, currency, it’s refreshing to taste still whites made from Airén, Albariño, Cayetana Blanca, Godello, Hondarrabi…