7 Apr 2010
Tasting articles

Bordeaux 2009 – St-Julien

Tasting articles
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See our guide to Bordeaux 2009 coverage.

It could be argued that St-Julien is becoming rather less of a dependable guiding light in the Médoc landscape, not least thanks to Bruno Borie's exuberance at Ducru-Beaucaillou. Certainly the contrast between the stolid, chunky wines from the Barton stable and the rest seems to become more marked by the year. Gloria and St-Pierre keep on producing the goods though.

The interesting newcomer is the third wine from Las Cases, Le Petit Lion.  Jean-Hubert Delon was another prominent left banker  who rather repudiated his Merlot in 2009.

Ch Beychevelle 2009 St-Julien

Pretty dark crimson right out to the rim. Alluring graphite notes on the nose. Fresh and mild. Not dramatic but neat and pretty. Very sweet but with the tannins in check. Though it will take a little while for them to dissipate. Real juice and concentration though.
Drink
2017
–
2027
16.5

Ch Branaire-Ducru 2009 St-Julien

Dark crimson with a pale rim. Very light nose with a rather unwelcome note of coconut. Sweet start and very fondu. Just a little simple but lusciously so. I am perhaps looking a gift horse in the mouth here – though the tannins on the finish are pretty rustic. If this were sold at an attractive price it would please many. Some real succulence.
Drink
2017
–
2027
16.5 +

Ch Ducru-Beaucaillou, La Croix de Beaucaillou 2009 St-Julien

75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot. From the centre of the appellation area and all the young vines too. Deep crimson. Lively and fresh on the nose. Sleek, polished, very sweet and frank – black fruits on the palate. 60% new oak. Dries out a bit on the finish. A little exaggerated. Cool and drying on the finish.
Drink
2017
–
2028
16.5

Ch Ducru-Beaucaillou 2009 St-Julien

45 hl/ha, 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot. IPT (total polyphenol index) was 90 (ie high).
Very dark crimson. Crimson, purple rim. Dense and peppery and quite mineral. Much more serious on the nose than the Croix de Beaucaillou. Very polished. Lots of energy. Bone dry, spicy finish. Pretty drying tannins. Not really as soft as Bruno Borie maintains, I think. Cool and slightly tarry. Very very youthful. 13.5%
Drink
2019
–
2030
17

Ch du Glana 2009 St-Julien

Dark crimson. Meaty and lively on the nose. Very rich and welcoming and nicely balanced for early drinking, though a little green on the finish.
Drink
2014
–
2018
16 -

Ch Gloria 2009 St-Julien

Full, rich and explosive on the nose. Very subtle and well balanced and gorgeous. Dry not drying finish. The zest of St-Julen with a hint of white pepper and clove. Nice wine!
Drink
2015
–
2023
17

Ch Gruaud Larose 2009 St-Julien

Dark crimson. Interesting leathery, almost Syrah-like notes. Very neat and satisfying. Savoury. Just a little austere on the finish. Drying tannins on the end. Very sweet.
Drink
2016
–
2028
16.5

Ch Lagrange 2009 St-Julien

Dark crimson. Purple rim. Very sweet indeed on the nose – unusually so for St-Julien. Glamorous and luscious with a hint of ink and freshness. Lots to enjoy! The tannins are very well handled and it’s pure pleasure. Maybe lacks just a hint of freshness.
Drink
2016
–
2028
17

Ch Lalande Borie 2009 St-Julien

Very fresh and sappy nose. Sweet start but fresh and zesty. Chewy finish. Nice elegance and racy. Maybe not the longest lived wine. INAO decided to use Napoleonic system to identify parcels – soils quite different. Slightly green and sinewy on the finsh.
Drink
2016
–
2026
17

Ch Langoa Barton 2009 St-Julien

Mid crimson with quite a pale rim. Pretty light – early picked? There’s a nice freshness and neatness to this but it’s overall a bit dry and grainy. ‘Classic style’... Rather dry on the end.
Drink
2018
–
2030
16.5

Ch Léoville Barton 2009 St-Julien

An intense nose with some strange oak note? Sweet, light, polished start. Pretty sinewy. A bit austere. Needs a lot of time. Deliberately slimline? But a very good complex undertow. A very slow burner.
Drink
2018
–
2034
17 +

Ch Léoville Las Cases, Le Petit Lion 2009 St-Julien

First vintage was 2007. Strange label with a baby lion superimposed within the famous Las Cases arch. Paler than Potensac. Tea and Earl Grey and sensitive and very fresh. A promising debut! Luscious and transparent and probably for quite early consumption but with a twist of first-growth quality. Real energy and tingle. He pulled out lots of vines in the Clos and these are the young vines (average age 5-10 years).
Drink
2015
–
2023
17

Ch Léoville Las Cases, Clos du Marquis 2009 St-Julien

Too much Merlot in here, he says. Very deep crimson. Hint of smoked meat on the nose. Not as immediately charming as the Petit Lion on the nose though very sweet and Merlot on the palate. A little dry on the finish. Neither fish now fowl?
NB: Le Petit Lion is the second wine of Léoville Las Cases, whereas Clos du Marquis is made from separate vineyards.
Drink
2017
–
2029
17

Ch Léoville Las Cases 2009 St-Julien

Very deep crimson. Subtle with great depth of fruit and a hint of tobacco. This seems much sweeter and lusher than Léoville Las Cases usually does even if there is a lot of tannin underneath. Really quite voluptuous – what Bruno Borie claimed in Ducru? – but lots of fancy tannin and a bit of alcohol on the finish. Very firm but a bit of a step change with all that sweetness on the top.
Drink
2020
–
2040
18

Ch Léoville Poyferré 2009 St-Julien

Very dark crimson. Very grown-up and intense. Luscious fruit and top quality savoury oak. Very sweet start – really quite unusually sweet for a St-Julien. Very complete, lip-smacking and satisfying. Glamorous, polished. Long. Quite complex.
Drink
2018
–
2032
17.5

Ch St-Pierre 2009 St-Julien

Very deep dark crimson – glossy colour. Aromatic and lifted. A little bit brutal in its make-up but very ambitious and introvert. Solid and dry on the finish. Very drying finish.
Drink
2020
–
2032
17 +

Ch Talbot 2009 St-Julien

Some development at the rim. Light, graphite nose not without its attractions... Very sweet start but lifted and easy and utterly relaxed. Slightly dry tannins on the end. But very solid effort. Nice neat persistence.
Drink
2018
–
2030
17