Now that Chile has established that the majority of vines it used to call Merlot are in fact the old Bordeaux variety Carmenère, I have been wondering where exactly Carmenère is to be found in Bordeaux today. We know it was much more widely planted before the arrival of phylloxera than it is today but until very recently I have never heard anyone even mention it in Bordeaux.
I was interested therefore to hear Hervé Berland when presenting a recent tasting of his company’s wines, Ch Mouton Rothschild et al, in London let slip that at...