Drinking at 'the world's best restaurant'

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There are many impressive things about Noma, the Copenhagen restaurant voted best in the world for the second time in a row recently, but one thing above all demonstrated the team's attention to detail when we ate there for the first time last Friday night.

It was not what was on our plates (the 'plates' at one point constituting a giant flat rock for each of our party of 14, so heavy that each one needed someone from the kitchen to carry it up to the first floor private dining room – the whole restaurant must have ground to a...