Elucidating en rama

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Wine writer Natasha Hughes MW sheds much-needed light on this 'new' style of sherry. See also today's compilation of strong and sweet wines

As all translators know, words can be slippery customers. And one term that has been giving sherry lovers a bit of a headache for the past few years is ‘en rama’. 

En rama literally means ‘branched off’, but that gives English speakers little understanding of the nature of the wine. Another common interpretation, ‘raw’, fails to convey the wine’s complexities. 

But however you translate it, narrowing down a definition of en rama is equally troublesome. Jerezanos...