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  • Jancis Robinson
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  • Jancis Robinson
1 Jul 2008

Find this wine 

 

Full-bodied, oaked, perfumed whites from Portugal are not ten a penny. The highly unusual Esporão Reserva Branco 2007 Alentejo tastes more like a Rhône blend from the south of France than a typical Portuguese white, but I suspect it would cost quite a bit more if it came from France instead of from southern Portugal in the heart of cork-growing country. (I once asked David Baverstock, Esporão’s Australian-born winemaker, who cut his teeth with the Symingtons in the Douro Valley, whether he had ever contemplated using screwcaps. He gave me a memorable look in response.)

 

The grapes in this handsome blend are from 15-year-old Antão Vaz, Arinto and Roupeiro vines (all of which can be looked up in your online Oxford Companion to Wine) and the overall effect is pretty full on the palate – it’s 14% alcohol with 3.4 g/l residual sugar – but the acidity, over 7 g/l, is quite high enough to keep it from being flabby. The soils here are both schistous and volcanic but I cannot claim to be able to taste this. The overall impression is more floral than mineral with just a hint of the new American and French oak barrels in which it was matured. If you cannot bear even the slightest hint of oak, this wine is not for you, but I found the fruit flavour certainly overpowers the oak at this stage in its maturation. On the other hand, I would not risk ageing it. It’s drinking beautifully now.

 

David Baverstock thinks 2007 was his best vintage for whites since 2004 because it was relatively cool. It would certainly make a great wine for a dinner party – and virtually un-guessable if served blind, I would have thought.

 

Below are the UK stockists according to importer Charles Hawkins.

 

Cambridge Wine Merchants

2 Mill Road, Cambridge. Tel. 01223 568991

 

Irvine Robertson Wines

10/12 North Leith Sands, Edinburgh

Tel. 0131 553 3521

 

Great Northern Wine Co.

The Warehouse, Blossomgate, Ripon

Tel. 01765 606767

 

Morgonrot-Chevaliers

Agecroft Commerce Park, Swinton, Manchester

 

Christopher Piper Wines

1 Silver Street, Ottery St. Mary, Bevon

Tel. 01404 814139

 

Savage Selection

Market Place, Northleach, Cheltenham

Tel. 01451 860896

 

LVF Wines

Leicestershire. Tel. 01858 545295

 

Sommelier Wines

St Peter Port, Guernsey

 

Madeira Café & Patisserie

London SE1 7TL. Tel. 0207 820 1117

 

Wine Society

Stevenage, Hertfordshire

 

Edward Sheldon Ltd

Shipston on Stour, Warwicks. Tel. 01608 661409

 

Grape Vine Co

Cockermouth, Cumbria. Tel. 01768 788807

 

St Martins Vintners

Station Wine Cellars, Brighton. Tel. 01273 777788

 

Robin Greatorex Wines

Coggeshall, Essex. Tel. 01376 562863

 

Halifax Wine Company

Prescott Street, Halifax  Tel. 01422 256333

Bowland Vintners

Field and Fawcett of York

 

Find this wine outside the UK.