German 2013s – Michael's second tranche

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This is Michael's second report on the 2013s, this time on some of the stars in the Mosel, Saar and Rheingau. It follows on from his earlier review of the Nahe, Rheinhessen and Pfalz. See also our guide to coverage of Germany's 2013s.

The wines below are in alphabetical order by producer, and then in the order tasted (more or less in ascending order of quality). For anyone not familiar with the German film scene, the Bambi awards are the German equivalent of the Oscars.

CLEMENS BUSCH, Mosel

Clemens Busch, Pündericher Marienburg Riesling Kabinett 2013 Mosel

Cask sample. Clemens Busch has managed to assemble plenty of fruit in his Marienburg Kabinett. Crisp apple, juicy pear and firm stone fruit defy the notion of a mean vintage. A lively acidity adds a delightful bite to a Kabinett for which substance and concentration can never be in question. (MS)
Drink
2014
2019
16.5

Clemens Busch, Pündericher Marienburg Riesling Spätlese 2013 Mosel

Cask sample. On the nose fruit aromas are already turning the exotic corner. The palate sparkles with the zest of sweet-sour orange and a tingling acidity to produce a Spätlese of delightful freshness. The raciness of its youth can confidently be expected to make way for elegance and complexity in the coming years. (MS)
Drink
2014
2021
17

GRANS-FASSIAN, Mosel

Grans-Fassian, Mineralschiefer Riesling trocken 2013 Mosel

The name Mineralschiefer promises mineral slate and the flavour lives up to that promise. The dusty tangent of this estate trocken receives support from an intriguing nutty nuance and certainly makes it one of the more successful dry entry-level wines of 2013. (MS)
Drink
2014
2017
16

Grans-Fassian, L Alte Reben Riesling trocken 2013 Mosel

Maybe not quite as exotic as the 2012, but the old vines of the L still managed to dig up enough fruit to keep the old slate in check. There is a fair concentration of apple and citrus fruit, but on the finish minerality does get a look in with a fascinating smoky aftertaste. An honest acidity comes across as fresh rather than choking. In a wine world where the buzz is all about exciting young winemakers, 2013 gave an ‘old’ master like Gerhard Grans the opportunity to play the trump card of experience. (MS)
Drink
2014
2018
16.5

Grans-Fassian, Catherina feinherb Riesling 2013 Mosel

There’s a truly refreshing quality about this feinherb. Attractive gentle citrus aromas invite further exploration, and the gentle orange and grapefruit flavour is served on a surprisingly soft texture. Well rounded and with just the merest hint of flintiness. Both acidity and minerality have been well harnessed without being totally denied. Just off dry and exceptionally harmonious for all its youth. (MS)
Drink
2014
2018
16.5

Grans-Fassian, Trittenheimer Riesling Kabinett 2013 Mosel

I have said it before and I shall say it again: when it comes to Kabinett, Gerhard Grans is a master of the traditional style. Even in 2013 he has managed to assemble plenty of ripe fruit, and although the acidity may be slightly higher than usual, it only adds to the freshness of the apple and grapefruit flavour. Lovely texture too, charming Kabinett! (MS)
Drink
2014
2019
16

REINHOLD HAART, Mosel

Reinhold Haart, Piesporter Riesling trocken 2013 Mosel

Cask sample. Shy on the nose, with just hint of apple and chalk. On the palate the acidity is racy but never sharp, nuances of almond and pear peel adding interest. Call me old-fashioned, but I’m still not entirely convinced about the Piesport and trocken pairing. (MS)
Drink
2014
2017
15.5

Reinhold Haart, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett 2013 Mosel

The name of my first love was Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Kabinett and I think she was born in 1959. In 2013 that spicy twinkle in the glass is still there, the fresh citrus fruit, the animating acidity, and though one has even gone out with a girl called Chardonnay, she never had the slender figure and racy charm of this little number. (MS)
Drink
2014
2019
16

Reinhold Haart, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese 2013 Mosel

Cask sample. Fresh citrus fruit aromas are accompanied by a faint scent of hand lotion, which always indicates good extract to me. On the palate zesty orange and mandarin flavours are served with an edge of racy acidity. Classic Spätlese with a nice bite. (MS)
Drink
2014
2023
17

Reinhold Haart, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Auslese 2013 Mosel

Cask sample. They must have been very patient and picky at the estate to assemble such clean ripe fruit. We are definitely venturing into the exotic sphere, but there is also an exquisite touch of garden herbs which lends an element of complexity to the mid palate before a marked salty minerality makes its presence felt. Overall this is still more a subtle rather than opulent style of Auslese. (MS)
Drink
2014
2027
18

KARTHÄUSERHOF, Ruwer

Karthäuserhof, Riesling trocken 2013 Ruwer

Still a little lactic and tasting of apple and grape must. Its freshness cannot be denied, but apart from that there is nothing really exciting. (MS)
Drink
2014
2016
14.5

Karthäuserhof, Schieferkristall feinherb Riesling 2013 Ruwer

The delicate notes of apple and citrus suggest that feinherb instead of trocken was the way to go at the Karthäuserhof in 2013. Quite refreshing and with a fair balance between body, fruit and acidity, just off dry. (MS)
Drink
2014
2016
15.5

PETER JAKOB KÜHN...