How well does Napa Cab age?

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One of many reasons for my recent trip to South and North America was to at long last accept an invitation to attend the annual wine writers’ symposium at the luxurious yet bucolic Meadowood resort near St Helena in the Napa Valley.

This is the most beautiful California variation on a country club slotted into a narrow valley off the main valley that was once home to an encampment of Chinese labourers who grew rice on what is now the golf course. It is owned and constantly upgraded by Bill Harlan of Harlan Estate, Bond and the stunningly clever Napa...