In memory of Aldo Conterno

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The sad demise of Aldo Conterno inspired me to look deep into my reserves of unpublished tasting notes for the collection below taken at the original Hakkasan in London last year during a visit by Aldo's son Franco (pictured).

Franco explained that he always tastes his magnificent Barolo from old to young when it's a tasting 'because old is always more delicate. If I'm eating I sometimes prefer the opposite because I can play with the food. We'll start with strong food and then proceed to finer, more elegant food with the older wines.' The wines are listed below in...