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Bordeaux 2000 - the sweepings
publication date: Jun 30, 2001
Only the foolish and very rich would buy the most glamorous 2000 clarets at this stage. Their prices have long since rocketed into the stratosphere of folly. The first growths have been offered in minutetranches, the fourth offered last week at the equivalent of £2200 a case, about as much as a case of delicious first growth 1985 costs today. Eeez crazeee! It may be impossible to see how investors can make serious money on this vintage but the château owners certainly have done - with the sole and noble exception of Anthony Barton who offered his sensational Ch Léoville Barton at the equivalent of under £20 a bottle, only to see it already being traded at about £800 a dozen. But there are still goodies to be bought lower down the ranks, at fair if not reasonable prices considering the exceptional quality of this vintage - especially though not exclusively in the Médoc. These wines have convincingly deep, lively colours and are ripe without being overdone. They have sappy fruit, appetising acidity and (the key to longevity without pain) a good charge of thoroughly ripe tannins. It is impossible to think of any vintage since 1990 that has produced so many delicious wines - and there are those three cute noughts on the label too! The Médoc is best represented below, partly because the vintage was so successful there and partly because the quantities available are higher, and therefore value is better, than in St Emilion and, especially, Pomerol. Buy these wines sooner rather than later for the Bordeaux negociants have already run out of stock of most of the better wines, so great has been demand, particularly from those paying in lovely strong US dollars. I have given an estimate of when to start drinking each wine, plus the best ex-cellars price per dozen bottles I could find last week from a UK stockist. Individual allocations are constantly being exhausted but these wines should still be available from a wide range of the world's merchants, retailers and fine wine traders who specialise in making en primeur offers. Compared to serious Cabernets from California, the wines below are a steal - and compared to most Cabernets made elsewhere, they represent pinnacles of subtlety and finesse. Two dozen châteaux to seek out in 2000: Villa Bel Air Far from the sexiest claret around, but wonderfully refreshing, supple Graves from the Lynch Bages stable. Fourcas Dupré Ambitious Listrac cru bourgeois delivers in 2000 with mulberries, flattering toastiness and no pain. La Chénade Denis Durantou of Eglise Clinet's property in Lalande de Pomerol offers serious value. Mont Pérat Racy wine from the Premières Côtes de Bordeaux. La Tour de By Rich, glossy and, as so often, one of the best buys of the vintage, from the northern Médoc. Marsau All-Merlot wonder from the Côtes de Francs. Remarkable value. Belgrave Surely the best value classed growth. Both charming and interesting. Potensac Neat, stylish, slightly reined-in cru bourgeois from the owners of Léoville Las Cases. Haut Bages Averous As spicily attractive as its Pauillac sibling Lynch Bages. Poujeaux Spicy, confident, easy to love and possible to drink quite soon. Ormes de Pez Another fine wine from Daniel Lhose of Lynch Bages though with St Estèphe rigour. Aiguilhe Creamy, pruny and strictly for lovers of the new super-flash St Emilion style, a Côtes de Francs from the owner of La Mondotte, etc. Grand Puy Ducasse Gentle, attractively old fashioned claret. Chasse Spleen Lovely structure, satiny texture, a thoroughly good, sturdy effort from Moulis en Médoc. Duhart Milon The bargain way to experience Lafite's current magic. Sumptuous nose. Fombrauge One of St Emilion's less glam properties is being revitalised by Bernard Magrez of Pape Clément. Lots of new oak. La Petite Eglise The second wine of Pomerol superstar Eglise Clinet is so sweet it's almost treacly. Fonplégade Another winning St Emilion overperformer. Haut Batailley Dramatically deep colour with everything a Pauillac needs for a fine future. Monbrison Silky, elegant Margaux cru bourgeois whose tannins are certainly there in force. Clos du Marquis Léoville Las Cases' much more flattering second wine will be ready a decade before its (very) big brother. Cantenac Brown Opulent, some Margaux fragrance, sleek, livelier than many previous vintages. Larrivet Haut Brion A refreshing Pessac Léognan given extra opulence by Michel Rolland. Issan Easy mouthful of ripe fruit. Another improving Margaux property.
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