This white-wine-producing mutation of Pinot Noir is enjoying a wave of popularity perhaps greater than it has ever known, and certainly on a wider geographical scale - even if it is relatively rarely known by its true French name Pinot Gris. Until recently Pinot Gris was probably known mainly in Alsace (as Tokay d'Alsace), northern Italy (as Pinot Grigio) and in Germany (as Grauburgunder or Ruländer). Today however it is known and increasingly planted in less classic wine regions, from Mendoza and Monterey to Marlborough. Pinot Gris is one of the darkest-skinned grapes producing white wine, rivalling Gewürztraminer for the redness of...