Alvaro Espinoza's red blend Coyam 2001 made by VOE, the wholemeal subsidiary of Santa Emiliana, sister company to Concha y Toro, was voted Wine of the Show last week at Chile's first wine judging held along the lines of an Australian wine show. With five other British judges I travelled to Santiago to taste nearly 500 wines from 81 different bodegas to join three Chilean judges. Since these included Espinoza himself, one might think the whole thing a little suspicious. But I can assure you that none of us was aware of the identity of any of the wines until the final gala dinner. Perhaps Espinoza picked his own wine out, but we all...