Mature and maturing Penfolds

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Jancis writes  In June I had the great pleasure of tasting more than 30 of Penfolds top wines, including the six vintages of Grange shown here, with Penfolds man about the world Peter Gago

As you can tell from this picture, artfully taken by the outfit's skilful PR man Ewan Murray, the setting for the tasting was the headquarters of The Wine Society in Stevenage outside London. For the last few years this wine-buying co-operative has been buying as much of these wines as they are allowed, but that has often been too small a quantity to offer immediately...