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Northcote Manor food & wine festival, Lancashire
17 Jan 2004 by JR
Nigel Haworth and Craig Bancroft
could never have imagined when they set out 20 years ago on the
culinary path that has led today to the splendid Northcote Manor
outside Blackburn in Lancashire that their signature dish would now be
the definitive Lancashire hotpot.
But the resurgence in the popularity of comfort food, the increase in
the quality of so much British produce and the regained pride of so
many chefs like Haworth in our more traditional dishes have turned the
culinary clock full circle. Today, Haworth's hotpot comes with oyster
fritters (an original accompaniment in some recipes when they were
cheap and plentiful), spiced pickled cabbage and glazed carrots. It
costs £32 for two and comes with the recommendation that customers
order it four hours in advance so that it can be cooked perfectly in
Nigel's Aga.
However, from Mon Jan 26 until Sun Feb 01 Northcote Manor provides an
opportunity for many in the north to sample less local dishes as their
fourth Festival of Food & Wine brings together seven characterful
chefs to lead the hotel's kitchen brigade.
These are New Zealander Peter Gordon from London's Providores; John
Campbell from The Vineyard in Stockcross; Darina Allen from the
inspirational Ballymaloe in county Cork; Rowley Leigh, Philip Howard
and Giorgio Locatelli from respectively, London's Kensington Place, The
Square and Locanda Locatelli and finally, Haworth himself.
Prices are extremely reasonable for the quality on offer - the five
course dinners are £70 per head including wines other than Howarth's on
the last night when the price is £90.
Bancroft relishes the challenge of working with his wine merchants to
find the most suitable wines and, incidentally, recommends reds from
Rioja, the Rhone or Portugal for anyone making Lancashire hotpot at
home.
Northcote Manor, Langho, Blackburn, Lancashire BB6 8BE. 01254-240462, northcotemanor.com
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