The new Time Warner building's NY restaurants
The five long heralded restaurants opening in the Time Warner
building at Columbus Circle, New York have sharply divided the
city's other restaurateurs and not just for the most obvious
reason that they do not appear to have been invited to the
One camp is vociferously shouting foul, claiming that the
obvious financial inducements that have persuaded Thomas
Keller and Masa Takayama from California, Charlie Trotter from
Chicago and the seemingly ubiquitous Jean-Georges Vongerichten
and Gray Kunz into the fourth floor above the shops give them
an unfair advantage as they themselves grapple with ever more
rapacious landlords and increasingly fickle New Yorkers.
The quieter camp wishes them well. They take the view that
what is happening today is only a repeat, albeit on a much
larger scale, of what happened in 1960 when The Four Seasons
opened its restaurant at the seemingly incredible cost then of
US$ 5 million. Their more charitable line is that there is
room for everyone.
Having spent two nights on the 48th floor of the building, in
the not-to-be-missed new Mandarin Hotel, I find it hard not to
come to the conclusion that reality is, as ever, more
complicated than either camp envisages. And, as a result,
trading may be more difficult than the chosen chefs and
This is only partly to do with the delays which have affected
Café Gray, Vongerichten's steak house (which a quick
glimpse of the interior suggests closely resembles a bordello)
and Trotter's restaurant. Keller's Per Se most unfortunately
suffered a kitchen fire shortly after opening and is now
closed until the end of April while Masa's usp, of charging
US$300 per head for dinner of fish specially flown in from
Japan, left me cold on two counts - principle, first and
foremost, and, more prosaically, the restraint of FT budgets.
But a pretty non-descript sushi and noodle lunch at Bar Masa,
Matayama's cheaper restaurant on the other side of the
escalators, taken while the manager finished her book,
highlighted one aspect of the internal competition these five
restaurateurs will face and was certainly not in the centre's
original business plan. Why would anyone pay US$25 for an
indifferent sushi lunch here when you can have one for half
the price from the sushi counter in the mouth watering Whole
Foods emporium in the basement?
Whole Foods and the Borders outlet on the third floor with one
of Dean & Deluca excellent cafe s are the retail stars
as nothing in between seems that exceptional. But the Whole
Foods store with its various hot food counters and Jambla
Juice counter where the lunchtime queue was four deep is
providing the quick and inexpensive options that many nearby
And what is happening on the 35th floor may also create more
competition than these exalted chefs may have expected.
Here on a magnificent corner site looking straight down 59th
Street and on to Central Park (the views are exceptional
because the building is, most unusually, not built on the
grid) the Mandarin has opened Asiate (pronounced Eh-sea-ate)
and cleverly stolen a march on its seemingly more renowned
The hotel has achieved this not just by opening on time and
offering an unparalleled view at extremely reasonable prices
(US$35 for lunch, US$65 for dinner for three courses) but by
giving a golden opportunity to Noriyuki Sugie, at 30, a hugely
talented but hitherto unknown chef.
And by making the place fun. The staff have been imbued with a
conspicuous desire to please, undoubtedly enhanced by the
restaurant's aspect as well as by the walls of wine which
contain 1,300 bottles, the booths along both side walls and
the glass sculpture along the ceiling. This is a room which
works just as effectively at night as during the day and my
breakfast meeting here was far more enjoyable and productive
than a subsequent day's gloomy affair across the park at The
Sugie, who was born in Japan but has cooked in France, Sydney
and Chicago before settling here, seems to have captured this
opportunity with both hands. His dishes reveal the Japanese
flavours currently so popular in New York, immediately obvious
in the nori flavoured gougere served as you sit
down, as well as the odd nod to pure experimentation, best
exemplified in his signature dish of Caesar salad soup, a
thick green soup of lettuce, Parmesan and chicken stock with
cous cous at the bottom and bacon foam at the top.
The menu follows the now common practice of listing the main
ingredient, crab, scallop or foie gras amongst the starters,
in bold and then their accompaniments in smaller letters. My
starter of clams sautéed with tiny diced vegetables
that were then partially submerged in a coconut and lemongrass
broth poured by the waitress was a really lively start and an
excellent counterpoint to the heartier main courses. One was a
very clever play on suckling pig which incorporated a delicious
medley of flavours, from the crunchy rectangles of pressed
pig's trotter to a much softer ball of pig's cheek confit.
Another was a thick confit of duck with daikon, Japanese
radish, in Peking duck broth. And Sugie's take on chocolate
fondant is memorably served in a covered wooden tumbler.
What is proving to be to be an equally important factor in
Asiate's popularity, helped by gentle mark-ups on the wine and
a knowledgeable female sommelier, is that it has almost
immediately established a role for itself. With dinner for two
totalling US$211 including a US$50 bottle of wine but
excluding service, Asiate will prove as useful on a regular
basis for wealthy Upper West siders as it will exciting for
less frequent visitors from further afield.
While waiting for their restaurants to open in this location,
Gray Kunz and Jean-Georges Vongerichten have been cleverly
collaborating on Spice Market which opened two months ago in
the Meatpacking district on the Lower West side, three blocks
from the subway at W14th.
This area is not as outlandish as many New Yorkers would have
you believe and has a very distinctive feel of its own, more
West Coast in fact than East. The buildings are much lower and
with ample light falling across former meat warehouses now
selling fashion and porcelain pigs there is a definitely
something of the Bay area here.
Amongst the buildings offering Lamb Unlimited, Dave's Quality
Veal and along the street from the Hogs and Heiffers Saloon is
a large corner site that is now Spice Market. Judging by the
extreme difficulty with which I finally managed to secure a
table at 18.30 it will happily remain there for some time.
The interior is very special. A great deal of wood has been
imported to give the illusion of a restaurant in the Orient
with only, alas, the warm sea breezes and the sound of
crashing waves missing. Instead there is, immediately on the
left, a busy bar beyond which is one major dining area with a
wide open kitchen beyond separated only by an equally wide
counter which cleverly allows diners to eat facing the kitchen
and at various points opposite one another. To the right a
wide staircase leads down to another more spacious bar with
alcoves for small groups.
Even sober I found Spice Market an exciting space but a ginger
martini quickly made it look even more enticing (and was far
better than the red apple martini at the Mandarin's bar which
looked, tasted and smelt just like Benylin, the cough
medicine). This feeling was quickly enhanced by the menu which
incorporates most of the cooking styles of Asia.
The dishes are not, however, just a whimsical collection but
rather the results of Kunz and Vongerichten's travels and
experience. Kunz was born in Singapore, cooked for five years
in Hong Kong then under the illustrious Freddy Girardet in
Switzerland before moving to the US while French born
Vongerichten was circumnavigating the world in the opposite
direction initially in Thailand before opening branches of the
highly successful Vong. Head chef Stanley Wong clearly runs a
highly energetic brigade of diverse origins.
Starters and salads traverse Asia: Vietnamese spring rolls;
hot and sour Thai chicken wings where the emphasis is firmly
if not overly on the hot; a cooler green papaya salad with
crystallized ginger and tamarind; and a crunchy squid salad
with cashew nuts. The main courses require you to pick a
country: an Indian pork vindaloo; cod with Malaysian chili
sauce; Vietnamese chicken curry; Thai red curried duck and,
presumably as tribute to its location, a prime piece of New
York steak grilled with garlic, coriander and chili. Dinner
for two including a US$38 half bottle of Oregon Pinot Noir
came to US$183 and could only have been bettered by more
suitable wine glasses.
Asiate and Spice Market are both great fun and belie the many
sceptics who try to label 'fusion' as confusion. Both
restaurants serve food that has evolved from their chefs'
travels, experiences and tastes. That so many have chosen to
settle in the ever-changing social maelstrom that has for so
long been New York is an added bonus for those who live, work
and visit this continually stimulating city.
Asiate, Mandarin Oriental, Time Warner, 80 Columbus Circle at
60th Street, 212-805 8881, www.mandarinoriental.com. Open all
Spice Market, 403 W 13th Street @ 9th Avenue, 212.675 2322.
Open lunch and dinner.
Sugie's nori gougere recipe
170 grams hard flour,
100 grams butter,
125 ml water,
125 ml milk,
Add 1 pinch nutmeg,
1 pinch cayenne,
1/2 tablespoon salt,
1/2 tablespoon sugar
100 grams gruyere.
1 mix makes 40 pieces.
a) boil milk, water, spices and butter,
b) gradually mix in flour, strirring constantly over high-
c) pour mix into mixer with paddle attachment, cooling
d) add eggs, mix,
e) add cheese, mix
f) pipe out with pastry bag, sprinkle nori and kosher (sea)
salt on top,
g) bake at 190 degrees C for 6 minutes, rotate, then bake 6
h) serve warm.
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