Among the accents I overheard at the babel of Cape Wine 2012, American was least frequent. That’s doubtless because of South Africa’s modest market share in this complicated and fractured wine market. The biggest wine importer into the United States, Italy, delivers between 25 and 30 million cases per year but South Africa manages only 850,000, according to Johan Meissenheimer, the MD of Florida’s Indigo Wine Group.
As a South African, Meissenheimer proudly champions the wines of his home country to the citizens of his adopted country. Indigo’s portfolio includes premium names including Rustenberg, Groot Constantia and Reyneke as...