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  • Jancis Robinson
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  • Jancis Robinson
30 Oct 2002
 

While Sicily is in a state of wine revolution (see Sicily - Italy's new California), there are signs that vinous Sardinia may at last be waking up too. Nicolò Incisa della Rocchetta of Sassiciai in Bolgheri is investing in a vineyard in Sulcis in the south-western part of the island. Daniel Thomases writes:

Here there are many very old, head-trained Carignan vineyards, some still on their own roots (lots of sand in the soil and apparently phylloxera is not a problem). The property, previously known as Fattoria Mauritania, is somewhat unusual, a block of 60 acres of vines in a zone where most vineyards are microscopic: the only real producer in the area is the cooperative winery at Santadi, which receives and ferments the grapes and bottles the wines of myriad smallholders. Incisa is in partnership with Antonello Pilloni, the president of the Santadi cooperative, and Giacomo Tachis, who is the consultant to Santadi (and of course Incisa's man for Sassicaia), will oversee the winemaking. The wines of Santadi - Rocca Rubia and, in particular, Terre Brune - are both very good indeed; for me, Terre Brune has been the best red wine of Sardinia over the past decade, consistently better than the more famous Turriga (which is a Cannonau, ie, a Grenache). The grapes, at least in the initial phases, will be fermented and aged at Santadi.